Chicken Necks and Blue Crabs

October 30, 2006


I know what you’re thinking, David. What person in their right mind has hyphenated line breaks on the cover of their cookbook? Don’t be put off. You’ll need something to do with all the crabs you pulled up from the Rt 50 bridge on the Chesapeake Bay. Yes, Myra is a little heavy handed with her flour in the roux, but you can adjust and add crisp Sicilian olives to contrast the sweet crab meat.

Individual Crab Soufflés

“The key to perfect soufflé is the preparation of the eggwhites” Myra waxes on thickly. My guess is that Myra was not sufficiently satisfied in her sleeping quarters. It’s true the eggs should be at room temperature before you separate and beat the whites. We need not write paragraphs on how to beat the whites, David, because I know you are ambidextrously skilled at stroking beast and fowl. I will, however, give you this one piece of advice: fold in the egg whites for no more than 1 minute and do not be concerned with remaining white patches. “Incorporate as many air bubbles as possible” so your soufflé will rise to it’s fullest.

1/2 lb fresh Chesapeake Bay crab meat
1 jigger cognac
4 TBS butter
1 1/2 TBS sifted flour
1 1/2 cups scalded milk
3 eggs yolks, separated
3 egg whites
6 gigante Sicilian olives
squeeze of lemon juice
coupla pinches of salt

Smash and chop the olives. Pour yourself a large portion of frozen vodka as you suck on the pits. Remove any remaining shell from the crabmeat. Add the cognac, a pinch of salt and marinate for 30 minutes. Melt the butter in a saucepan, whisk in the flour. Whisk in the milk slowly. Add the crab meat, olives and salt. Cook for 5 minutes, then let the mixture cool while you pour more frozen vodka. Beat the egg yolks and stir in.

“Beat the egg whites until stiff,  but not dry.” says Myra. Ok, what the fuck does that mean? I like to whip them until they make soft peaks. If you use a whisk, you can play grab ass as you work through this procedure. Kind of like Bill Murray with the spatula. It’s a good trick.

Fold the egg whites into the crab mixture. Remember, it’s all about the bubbles, so don’t stir too much. Spoon the batter into four 1 cup, straight sided, ramekins . Sprinkle with smoked Spanish Paprika and bake  for 12 minutes at 350. Serve with greens dressed lightly with olive oil and lemon juice.


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